KATHMANDU, June 21, 2013 - Ultra runner Sanjay Pandit was able to set a new record by running 2210 Km. distance with in Nepal. He is well known for his outstanding performance as an ultra-runner. Along with his athletic career, he has established his popularity as a mountaineering professional. He has already climbed up Manashula peak 8163 mt. known as killer mountain of the world, Island Peak, L.Peak, Chhukungri Peak successfully. Last year he had climbed up Mount Everest upto 8685mt. height and remaining height was unclimbed up Manshlu peak 8163 known as killer mountain Island peak, L.peak, chhukungri peak successfully. Last year he had climbed up mount Everest upto 8685 m high and remaining height was unclimbed due to bad weather. This year in
2013, Sanjay Pandit was able to take the AIPS banner at the top of Mt. Everest. Sanjay Pandit became the first player (athletes) of the world taking with AIPS banner. Here is an account of Sanjay Pandit’s experiences during his expedition.
Mt. Everest after Manashlu
“ Being able to climb up Mt. Manashlu (8163 m.) Successfully, I targeted for Mt. Everest. I felt pain when I became unsuccessful to reach the peak of Everest last year. I thought that I would be successful in one day. I realized that Mt. Everest was waiting for my foot steps and welcoming me to lead the further steps towards the peak.”
I started my journey to Mt. Everest with receiving a mountaineering letter from seven summit trek were 75 persons in the team. After ten days walk from lukla , we reached Sagarmatha base camp than our regular practice started. To reach the summit, earlier adjustment to environment is necessary, there might be difficulty in climbing mountain if the practice is not sufficient. After the practice, my guide and I were completely adjusted to the environment.
Lopsang did not return
I told that his son would never climb Mt. Everest. His son lives in Kathmandu, Nepal. He was brought up in Thamel. We were sure that after being mature he would straightly go to USA. Lopsang was working hard in the mountains to improve his economic status. He didn’t like that his son would follow his profession as a guide. Lopsang was in favor of my opinion.
He was my guide and I the climber I had additional enthusiasm as I was ultra-runner. He predicted that I would climb Mt. Everest two times. Bu unfortunately while fixing camp – 4, he fell off from yellow rock. I couldn’t believe my ears when I heard his death news. I was so shocked & felt sad. It was the reality so I should have accepted it. I lost my close friend who was with me for my support, we became separated for ever though we wanted to touch the peak of Mt. Everest together. Within a moment, he was not there with me. When he was rescued by a helicopter, I had a last meeting with him. I was stiffened and became feeble as I
couldn’t do anything to reserve the situation at that moment. I spent remaining days in my journey with deep memory of him.
Dangerous Khumbu Icefall
The way from base camp to camp-1 is considered the most dangerous. Here Khumbu icefall is a kind of the terror. It changes constantly within an hour; Icefall doctors devote themselves cleverly to save climbers from accident.
We resumed our treaking on May 15th from base camp. I was with Chinese group and my next guide was chhepal Sherpa. We took rest at
camp-2 that day. On May 17th we were in camp-3. From camp-2 to 3 we have
to walk through blue snow. There snow is like a glass and in some
places we walked only with the help of rope. Camp 3 is at the height of
7500m. It is called death zone.
From there all the climbers carry oxygen and other necessary goods. We reached to camp-4 after six hours trekking. There we took rest for nearly five hours and then at 6:15 pm. We started for top summit of Mt. Everest. I was a little faster so I reached at Balakuni (8500m.) earlier than others. My guide suggested me to change oxygen there . I had to wait
for more then 2 hours to my guide as he was back. While waiting I faced snow blow, stones and icefalls. It caused me harm. In a solitary deep night I was filled with fear and tense. I was afraid of being not able to complete my journey. However I had to complete my aim.
Taking South Summit at Mt. Everest
Our team reached to south summit at 5:30am. At a down the canvas in the Himalayan area was so beautiful. It was exciting & fascinating for me. I thought that south summit seen from south bent must be the world’s highest place of the world. But in reality it was not. From little far away the top peak of the world is watching at me. On May 19th ,2013 at 9:56am. I stepped on the top summit of Mt. Everest. There, I had unique experience. I
realized being tallest myself. All the things looked down from there.
With the bliss, the danger is also coming. We sometime ignore it. During the time of climbing, I experienced it. When I was 25 m. below the top peak, the regulator of my oxygen cylinder was not working. I suffered from suffocation due to lack of oxygen. The mind became blank. I was struggling with death. I was sure to die. Meanwhile, by the grace of God, Karma Sherpa supported me. He gave his extra regulator and oxygen. I got the new life.
During that crisis, I was encouraged by my guide Chhepal Shrepa. If I was not helped by those kind people I would be there forever in complete rest in the cold fur of snow. No chance of living at all. Usually people don’t help others at that point where I was helped. It is because everyone are intoxicated with the feeling of touching to the summit as much as possible. As many are exhausted too. In such situation, I was helped by chhepal &
Karma Sherpa. I never forget their kind help until my death. I am grateful to then.
Again when our team was returning back from south summit (8700m.), I lost my glasses. Getting it back was impossible. Then we were followed by snow blow and fog. Ice blocks were hitting us. When we reached to south bent there were some problems in my eyes. I was unable to see. That day we stayed at camp-4 so I was saved from being completely blind. Next day when we reached yellow rock, there was burning sunshine. I was completely affected at that time felling pity to my condition, Lakpa Sherpa gave meglasses so I was saved from being ice blind. I have special thanks to Lakpa Sherpa who saved me from being blind.
Long queue of men than Kathmandu Traffic system
While climbing Mt. Everest, I knew that there is boring a long queue of men
on the way. It was not less than traffic jam at Kathmandu Valley. At Hilari step, climbers go up and down through ropes; It is completely a rocky slope. At one time, a climber can go up or down there. That day I had to wait for nearly 3-4 hours as other climbers have to do most of the time. When the waiting occurs long, there might be the possibility of finishing
oxygen & food.
Nepal is known the world as a country of Mt. Everest. The government is getting a lot of royalty every year. But the presence of government is not there in any form. I found that many people had climbed it without paying royalty to the government. It is known that almost 1-2 percent of climbers climb up Mt. Everest without informing to the government. Most of them are foreigners. In a secret agreement between travel agency & climbers they can easily deceive the government. From this there is great loss of government revenue every year.
Only rocks at the peak
There is only black rocky area above the height of 8000 m. I think it happened so due to the effect of climate change & global warming. In most of the places we have to struggle to walk on bare rocks. At the sharp peak there is a little snow where nearly 15-20 people can stay at all.
When people start climbing Mt. Everest to get married, there laughing for hours & climbing Everest with bicycle cause loss of its pride. Climbing Mt. Everest becomes easy & cheap for trivial purpose.
In Nepal there are eight other Himalayan peaks higher than 8000m. Climbers should target for these mountains too. Government and travel agencies should suggest promote climbers to climb up other mountains too. From the base camp to the top peak of Mt. Everest the pollution is disgusting. Government should have a plan to keep that place clean & healthy, Apart from Mt. Everest, bringing the publicity of other higher peaks as Kanchanjanga Manashlu, Lotchse, Makalu, Choyu is necessary. If they are advertised and make known to people around the world the government can get a lot of royalty every year. Due to the election in China last year, China stopped climbing Mountains from there, Many people came to Nepal to climb Manashlu & Makalu last year. Let give to Mt. Everest Leisure for a while. Let’s celebrate Mountain earing day at Sagarmatha base camp.
Pride of Athletes/ sportsmen
I reached at the top of Mt. Everest as a representative of all the athletes of the world players need to be stable in faith and belief like the Himalayan peaks. I became able to put the flag of AIPS and Nepal sports council at the top summit of Mt. Everest. AIPS is offering me the help and promise to go further as a sportsman. I am grateful to all the organization
and individuals who offered me help and assured me to help in coming days. I am thankful to the president of AIPS who is offering me continuous co-operation & suggestions in this attempt as well as other attempt. When I reached back to Everest base camp, I suffered from frostbite. I was unable to walk so we came back to Kathmandu by a helicopter.
At the top of Mt. Everest, I remember red my birth place, my country as well as the people and organization that made my ambition successful providing me help to achieve the success. My family, friends, relatives and best wishers were praying for my success. Thanks to all. Its pride for me, my land & all the sportsmen.